My daughter announced her engagement and we were off with the planning and preparation for this happy occasion. My daughter wanted the whole experience of shopping for a wedding gown which, thankfully, meant I wouldn’t be making her dress. My dressmaking work involved two dresses – mine, the mother of the bride and a daughter-in-law’s, who was to be one of the bridesmaids. Since my daughter-in-law is very voluptuous, she was struggling with finding a dress that would not only fit but be comfortable and flattering as well. Often, ready made dresses use extra layers and boning to squeeze the body into the shape. My daughter-in-law was very excited about getting a custom made dress. Her dress was made from a beautiful sanded satin. The bodice front was surplice with diagonal darts originating from the waist. The sleeves are gathered and puffed at the shoulder with vertical darts from the hem. The beautiful skirt is a full circle. Nothing more feminine than a full circle skirt, so fun to wear, feels luscious and makes you want to twirl. This beautiful dress was extremely flattering on my daughter-in-law. She not only looked beautiful, but she also felt beautiful. The mother of the bride dress is a navy stretch crepe with a beautiful lace overlay. It is two dresses in one. The lace dress was a little longer at the hem and sleeve and sat a little higher at the neckline showing off the lace against the skin. The design was kept simple as the lace was more elaborate The stretch crepe felt very luxurious against the skin and made the whole dress very comfortable. A beautiful wedding and happy bride & groom.
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It changes the way you feel in your clothes when they fit. I don't mean that the piece of clothing goes around you and meets in the front - I mean it fits your body. The princess line flatters your figure. The shoulders don't hang off your shoulders. The sleeve ends at the wrist or where dictated by the design. If the shoulders fit then it also fits around your middle. Etc. One of my first jackets that I fell in love with, is Eugenie. Here I am wearing it over a rayon blend version of Grace. The princess seaming and back belt are so flattering. This original version is a pink wool blend. Eugenie does not have pockets to interrupt the line. I just could not do it. Maybe a later version will have pockets I love working with linen and I love the way it looks, especially in jackets. This sky blue linen version of Eugenie has exaggerated the collar a bit. Same wonderful princess lines. There is nothing quite as wonderful as a beautiful jacket, carefully made from a fabulous fabric which fits YOUR body!
What I have been working on this week – well recently. I have a favorite client that lives in Arizona. She is wearing a dress I made for her in 2016 before I got distracted by running a painting business with my husband. Knowing I now had more time she talked to me about making her another dress. She wanted a dress that was midi length, easy to get in and out of and cute. I knew she liked collars, so I added that. She also did not want something that fit tight over her lower half. I sketched up an idea and sent it to her – she loved it. Since she is a repeat customer, I had her measurements, so I set to work on the design and patternmaking. I did research trying to find fabric she might light and sent her pictures from which she could choose. She selected two fabrics; I ordered the material and began work on the muslin or mockup. Knowing I now had more time she talked to me about making her another dress. She wanted a dress that was midi length, easy to get in and out of and cute. I knew she liked collars, so I added that. She also did not want something that fit tight over her lower half. I sketched up an idea and sent it to her – she loved it. Since she is a repeat customer, I had her measurements, so I set to work on the design and patternmaking. I did research trying to find fabric she might light and sent her pictures from which she could choose. She selected two fabrics; I ordered the material and began work on the muslin or mockup. I mailed the muslin to her with a questionnaire. I try to ask lots of questions so I can give my client exactly what they want.
She answered the questions and told me she wanted the dress and sleeves a little longer than she originally thought. I made the adjustments and made her two dresses. I love this random print batik fabric. It feels alive and cheerful. It has a contrasting yoke, trim inset and cuffs. This is a dress for when you feel happy or want to. The unique style has a plunging yoke at the neck with gathers coming from the yoke to the bust. This version of Camille was extra fun. I got to climb into my sister's beautiful garden for a picture. No contrasting fabric in this version, just piping to show the details. Of course it always more fun to include two of my adorable grand daughters. This version of Camille has 3 coordinating colors.
Years ago, when my brother talked me into making him a western cut shirt, he told me he didn't care what color as long as it was blue and solid. I made a few shirts of different shades of blue. Then a few years ago I made him go with me to pick out some fabric. He picked a bright geometric purple and yellow print. I made it and he loved it. Then I showed him a shirt with white collar, cuffs and plackets - he got a big smile on his face. You will notice that none of the pictures show my brother's face. He may like to dress a little flashier but he hates attention. The best reaction was when I showed him the purple shirt with very colorful fabric for cuffs, plackets, yokes and piping. He was very excited. It is about knowing your customer and my brother, like me, loves bright colors. So much for solid blue. Although, western style shirts are not my favorite to make, I am always well rewarded by my brother's reaction when he gets another shirt from me. I wouldn't make them for anyone else. You will note that the yokes and cuffs are more elaborate in shape and I experimented with different pockets that mimic the yoke curve. I love creating beautiful clothes that fit well. This dress is Aubree. Aubree has a princess line on the bodice, two box pleats in front and zips up the back. There is some slight gathering which makes this skim over the body. This version has pockets which are always a plus. It is, of course, 100% cotton a premium fabric with a butterfly print on a purple and blue background. My husband says it is camo when I sit in my floral armchair. There is a reason I call my dressmaking studio - Joyful Fashion. I love creating with happy fabrics. I couldn't resist this fabric - it is a little deeper than coral but not quite orange with random dots of white and orange. It is 100% cotton with a smooth finish and is very comfortable to wear. Natural fabrics are the best - easy to wear, breathable and wear for a long time. The style is a combo of Phoebe and Juliette. The 'V' neckline has asymmetrically placed straps. The sleeves have self cuffs. And there is a surprise about halfway down the front. Pockets!
This dress has a very flattering silhouette created by the raised waist and the 8 gored skirt. Combine this with great fabric and a good fit and you have a treasure in your closet that you are going to wear again and again. The fabric is 100% cotton with the feel of a fine linen/cotton blend. It is luscious to wear and holds up to repeated washing. Self covered buttons give both a sense of elegance and a great canvas for accessories. Horizontal tucks give a cute kick to the sleeves adding even more interest to the dress. Sleeves seem to be absent or skimpy in most dresses. Not only does this dress have great fitting sleeves they are cute also! Bonus! |
DesignerI’m Deborah Ewer, a designer and dressmaker who creates bespoke clothing for women. I believe clothing should feel joyful, fit beautifully, and help you feel confidently yourself. Archives
March 2026
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